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Keeping Scalextric Track Clean<\/h4>\n The two parts of the track \u2013 plastic and metal \u2013 require different cleaning techniques. The plastic can be wiped over with a slightly-damp clean microfibre cloth. These are great for lifting dust. Even better is covering your layout with a dust sheet when not in use. Some people use a small portable vacuum cleaner \u2013 but please be careful not to hoover up your lovely scenery and trackside figures!<\/p>\n
If you are carefully lubricating your cars and keep sticky fingers and food away from the layout, you really shouldn\u2019t need anything more heavy-duty that a light wipe with a moist cloth. Like a real track, the Scalextric Sport surface will build up a layer of rubber over time to give more grip. This is a good thing and you don\u2019t want to keep wiping it away.<\/p>\n
Next, it\u2019s time to clean the metal rails<\/strong>.\u00a0 Remember \u2013 they are made of steel, plated with a very thin layer of nickel to protect from rust. The rails will get dirty and possibly tarnished with use, but when we clean them we want to be very careful with that nickel plating. Anything abrasive (sandpaper, track rubber, even metal polish) will wear away the plating and the rails will rust. Please don\u2019t be tempted by a quick fix \u2013 keep abrasive cleaning products away from your Scalextric track!<\/p>\nThe first part of my cleaning regime is using lighter fluid (naptha) on a rag<\/strong>. I buy tins of lighter fluid from the pound shop and the rags are re-used worn-out cotton t-shirts. It\u2019s pretty much what my dad was doing with his first Scalextric set in 1959 \u2013 except he used methylated spirits. The naptha is flammable and hazardous, so it is best to wear rubber gloves and clean your track in a well-ventilated area.<\/p>\nSoak a little lighter fluid on a small, clean patch of the rag and run along the metal rails and over the prongs at each end. Depending on the filthiness of the rails, more pressure may be needed. It pays to take your time and to clean regularly. Dirt left on the rails will gradually damage the nickel plating.<\/p>\n
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The second part of my rail-cleaning routine is to condition and protect the meta<\/strong>l. To do this, I use INOX-MX3, but WD-40 is a reasonably good alternative and easier to find in the UK. Whatever you choose, please use it sparingly. INOX gets extremely messy if used in excess and WD-40 can damage the plastic track surface. The best method is to put a couple of drops on the braids of a car and run the car round the track a few times. On a digital track, don\u2019t forget to use the lane changers and go through the pit lane.<\/p>\nBoth INOX-MX3 and WD-40 are sold in sprays \u2013 the fluid should be decanted into small dropper bottles (eg vaping fluid bottles) to be used sparingly. I use INOX-MX3 a lot, yet a 60 ml bottle lasts me about five years.<\/p>\n
If you clean the track before setting up and then condition it with cars with INOX or WD-40 on their braids, you will have a clean track with an anti-moisture covering and (especially with INOX) you\u2019ll have exceptionally good rail to braid electrical conductivity. This is why many Scalextric Digital enthusiasts say a bottle of INOX is a must-have accessory.<\/p>\n
Because the INOX or WD-40 protects the metal and drives off moisture, you want to leave it on the rails when the track is not being used or is in storage. So don\u2019t clean the track rails before you put it away \u2013 leave the tiny layer of INOX or WD-40 and then clean before you use the track next time.<\/p>\n
Resurrecting Rusty Track<\/h4>\n If you look after your track and never use anything abrasive that risks removing the nickel plating from the steel rails, you should never see any rust. However, it is amazing how quickly and easily the steel rails rust when the plating is removed or damaged. To be honest, the sensible thing to do is bin the rusty track and replace it with new pieces. However, I have restored original Classic track – and very occasionally modern Sport pieces – and this is what I do\u2026<\/p>\n
First remove the rust. This is the only time anything abrasive gets near metal track rails. Go in with some medium-grit sand paper (400 or 600) and \u2013 once the red\/brown rust is off and the rail smooth \u2013 follow-up with a finer grit paper (800 or 1200). I then polish the rails with a 3M nylon polishing wheel on a Dremel. This is probably overkill, but it gets a really nice shine.<\/p>\n
Secondly, condition the rails. Using INOX-MX3, WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil on a cotton bud (Q-Tip for American readers), run a very light coating along each rail. This is much more than normal, but is necessary. Leave the track piece for a few days to condition and then apply another layer. After another couple of days, wipe down the rail with a dry, clean cloth. This is just to remove any excess INOX, oil or WD-40, don\u2019t use any solvent. The track will now be ready to use – it won’t look perfect, but should work okay.<\/p>\n
Without the conditioning, the rails will quickly rust again. With restored track rails, you should repeat this process every year, in addition to the regular cleaning and conditioning routine.<\/p>\n
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Bent Track & Rails<\/h4>\n Scalextric track pieces can lose their \u2018flatness\u2019 after a while \u2013 usually through wear and tear and less-than-perfect storage. You\u2019ll notice this when your cars are bumping their way down a straight as if someone has installed speed humps on your layout. It is easy to flatten out a concave piece by gently bending it over your thigh. Do be aware of wrinkling the inside of the slot\u2026<\/p>\n
If a track piece is trodden on or bent, you may find the rails on the inside of the slot become \u2018wrinkled\u2019 and catch on the guides of your cars. In the worse cases, this may stop the car from moving \u2013 something that can easily blow a chip in a digital car. Once the track is flat, use a plastic ice-lolly stick or small spatula to flatten the wrinkles out. Simply running the plastic tool through the slot usually does the job. If you need more leverage and require a metal tool like a screwdriver, you must unplug the power from the track, otherwise you\u2019ll get quite a shock. Don\u2019t ask me how I know that…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Well-maintained track should give you years of trouble-free enjoyment. However, poorly-maintained track is a recipe for glitchy power, endless frustration and not much fun. It is definitely worth spending time on getting the track connections right and keeping the track rails nice and clean. And please – never, ever put anything abrasive anywhere near those […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":2264,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[5,13,6],"tags":[35,29,40,39,30],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2253"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2253"}],"version-history":[{"count":17,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2253\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2537,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2253\/revisions\/2537"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2264"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2253"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2253"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2253"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}