<\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\nThe Electrical & Mechanical Stuff<\/h4>\n
This layout is very typical of most late-2010s and early-2020s Scalextric cars. At the front, you can see the guide is attached to the underpan by a small cross-head Guide Screw<\/strong>. There is also the glint of one of the two shiny metal Braid Contacts<\/strong> that fit into the base of the main guide assembly.<\/p>\nNext, you can see the spaghetti which is the Scalextric Wiring Loom<\/strong>. The yellow and green wires connect the braid contacts to a plug that fits into a socket on the DPR hatch (or the C8515 digital chip). The power is then distributed via black and red wires to the front headlight boards and to the motor. The rear light board is fed by wires from the motor.<\/p>\nPart of the wiring system is what we call the Ferrite Man<\/strong>. There are usually two of these in a Scalextric car – one on the yellow and green wires from the braids and another across the motor terminals. The name comes from the orange disc of the ceramic capacitor looking like a ‘head’ and its wire ‘legs’ passing through a grey ferrite bead that looks like a ‘body’. The incoming wires attached just above the ferrite bead can look like ‘arms’. The function of the ferrite man is to act as a filter for electromagnetic interference created by the braids and the motor. This interference can seriously disrupt the working of a Scalextric digital car, so the filters are fitted as standard to all Scalextric models.<\/p>\nThe Insulation Tape<\/strong> on the motor is also vital on digital cars – if the wires of the ferrite man touch the metal motor casing, a short-circuit will cause a digital chip to burn up. Even on a standard non-digital car, a short-circuit can cause the power base to go into safety mode. Don’t remove the insulation tape.<\/p>\nApart from the electrics, the diagram shows the important mechanical components – axles, gears and bushings. The Front Axle<\/strong> simply sits in raised hoops, giving a little up-and-down movement. The Rear Axle<\/strong> is held in the underpan via white plastic Axle Bushings<\/strong>. These keep the axle firmly in place, while also giving the axle a smooth surface to rotate in. This axle-bushing surface is lubricated at the factory. Keeping this smooth is important for performance – any friction means power from the motor is be used to create heat rather than speed on the track.<\/p>\nThe same is true of the gears. A smooth “mesh” between the small Pinion Gear<\/strong> on the motor shaft and the bigger Crown Gear<\/strong> on the axle means less friction and more power to the rear wheels – and less heat in the motor. The gears are lubricated at factory and the mesh is usually nice and smooth – but it is something to look at on a first inspection.<\/p>\nThat first inspection – when we first get a new car out of the box – is how we will start the second part of this Scalextric tuning series. We’ll be getting the Mustang on the SL6 test track and looking at four really easy tweaks to improve the handling and lower the lap times.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
To understand how to tune a Scalextric car, we need to start with the basics… In this post we’ll look at the parts of a typical Scalextric model, both outside and inside. I’ll be using a Scalextric Ford Mustang GT4 as a test-bed to tweak, tune and develop. You can find all ten blog posts […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":2615,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[5,13,6],"tags":[29,44,39,30],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2601"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2601"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2601\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5611,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2601\/revisions\/5611"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2615"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2601"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2601"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.jadlamracingmodels.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2601"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}